The Wisconsin Whey: Cheesemaking in the Driftless by Judy Newman et al

The Driftless Region of Wisconsin is home to some of the nation’s finest cheese artisans, whose creations have earned hundreds of state, national, and international awards. Three of these talented cheesemakers were even featured on Top Chef: Wisconsin during its twenty-first season, which aired in spring 2024. According to the artisans, the secret to their cheese’s exceptional flavor lies in the milk sourced from this unique region.

Guided by Joe Burns, owner of Brunkow Cheese in Darlington, twelve cheesemakers were selected to be featured in a book celebrating Driftless cheesemaking. Award-winning Chicago-based food photographer Paul Strabbing captures their craft visually, while Judy Newman Coburn, a former business reporter for the Wisconsin State Journal, shares their stories.

The book introduces master cheesemakers like Sid Cook of Carr Valley Cheese, who has crafted over fifty varieties and received more top awards than any other cheesemaker in North America. It also highlights Andy Hatch of Uplands Cheese, whose Pleasant Ridge Reserve, one of only two cheeses his company produces, has earned more accolades than any other single cheese in the U.S.

Traveling through western Wisconsin, from Shullsburg to Westby, the authors met cheesemakers representing diverse legacies and paths. Some are the fourth generation in their family business, while others entered the field just a decade ago. Among them are women breaking into a traditionally male-dominated industry, cheesemakers specializing in sheep, goat, or even buffalo milk, and artisans with backgrounds as varied as law, political campaigns, and wine marketing.

What ties this eclectic group together is their shared commitment to craftsmanship and quality. They work long hours perfecting their cheeses and fostering an extraordinary sense of collaboration. Despite being competitors, these artisans openly support and celebrate each other’s successes, embodying a unique camaraderie rare in any industry.

This book not only tells their stories but also celebrates their dedication to their craft and their contributions to Wisconsin’s rich cheesemaking tradition.